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花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间



    全球首家古又文品牌旗舰店终于在台开幕!一起跟着作者 Alex 走进古又文2015春夏作品——迷情花园。

    Johan Ku is the designer I have followed a lot from high school. Since 2009 when he won the Gen Art The Design Vision of Avant-Garde awards, I have seen him as my goal of being a fashion designer.  So it was like seeing my high school idol in person while interviewing him.

    古又文一直是我在关注的台湾设计师,高中听到他没有任何家世背景,靠自己的实力得奖时,内心就有种莫名的崇拜感,觉得他好像我们这些从小非生长在名门权贵的希望灯塔。他也很争气这几年在东京时装周大放异彩,受到 WWD 的好评。而今年他终于在台湾开了一间全球旗舰店,回到他的家乡,开启通往全球时装世界的大门。

    The Flagship Store Info 全球旗舰店资讯

    Bellavita 2nd floor 宝丽广场二楼
    Address: No.28, Songren Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City 110, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    Weekday / 10:30 – 22:00 
    The day before the holidays / 10:30 – 22:30 
    TEL + 886 2 8729 2271

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    Now please follow me to take a look at their first Global Flagship store! Thanks to Womany for invitation and Scott for photography

    接着就跟我一起来轻鬆逛古又文全球第一间旗舰店吧,之前他在国外都是跟 select shop 以买断方式合作为主,这次回台湾开旗舰店对品牌是大加分,让他一整季灵感能完整呈现!

    先感谢女人迷邀约跟好友 Scott 的绝佳摄影

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    The overall visual design is superb!The floral design perfectly matches the latest collection. They also have complete 01 byJohan Ku collections for business women, so no matter you want more couture like Gold Label or daily wear like 01, you can all find it here.

    整体的视觉设计非常棒,一进门看到满满的花墙完美呼应春夏主题,里面逛街动线流畅,拥有完整的订製服Gold Label系列,和上班族穿的01 Johan Ku 系列,可说各种消费者都能找到喜欢的衣服啊!详细等我最后的专访跟大家解释

    First is the Ribbon-cutting ceremony with Celebrities and designer himself

    开幕剪彩邀请到设计师本人,女神郭雪芙,聂永真跟 Bellavita 董事梁佳敏剪彩,郭雪芙真的蛮适合这种立体感的衣服,因为本人纤细这种分量感较重的衣服穿起来特别好看!

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    Below is Gold Label collection

    先来看看高订系列(喜欢都可以跟品牌联络定製)

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     Gold Label also has men's collection

    Gold Label 同时有少量男装系列

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    The SS15 collection is based on "The hanging Garden" which mixs the sorrow and romance into fabulous pieces. With different textile mixing and sewing to make it vivid on people and exclusive pattern with Andrew Penketh, he perfectly captures garden flower spirit of born and death.
    这次春夏Gold Label灵感来自于电影迷情花园,布料都是他独家跟英国百货Harvey Nichols的摄影师Andrew Penketh所研发,以墨绿与深紫色为基底,运用手工立体刺绣花朵呈现(每一朵都是他与团队亲自缝製的,非常耗时),完美表达出花园里花朵的盛开与凋零,立体拼接纱线就像是花朵热情绽放,丝质阴暗的色调就像是凋零纷飞的花瓣,从生到死都要美的无怨无悔。

    刚好呼应我之前看到爱亚的散文送给大家:
    我喜欢的,无非是那一直火燎原般奉献式的花朵盛放;以及在拼尽生命力后,花朵儿飘然萎地的心甘情愿,无声无息。
    而人,往往是既不捨得奉献,又不肯于心甘情愿,无声无息的。

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     The scarf is from Johan Ku's collection 我穿的是古又文最新推出丝巾系列

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    Then it's the 01 Johan Ku 's collection with really useful workwear items for every business woman, and stunning fabric to make you comfortable at work.

    接着是他的副牌01 Johan Ku 系列,这系列走的是比较实穿上班路线,古又文也运用他本身对布料的丰富知识在这系列,用顶级的,用顶级的真丝, Cashmere 羊毛等给上班族女性舒适时尚的选择,这季使用大量的极轻薄 Silk Georgette(真丝乔其纱),适合夏天闷热的天气

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     They also have scarves and small leather goods 

    他们现场也有很多好入手的丝巾跟皮件系列

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    Then it's my interview Time! 接着就是我第一次尝试的专访!

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     We accidentally found out his card holder is like a lighter! Super cute~

    专访时候被我们发现他的名片夹超可爱,就像个打火机一样让我们在场的人好升火~

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    1.  Why you start your own flagship store this year?

    Ku: I always think of myself as a designer, and that was what I focused on previous years. I used to collaborate with those select shops like OC in US and others in Europe, focusing on my own design part. This year is lucky to have agency to help me start my own store here. It's a good way to let me concentrate on design, sales and business part handled by those professional people.

    1.知道您2009得名后一直有在参展,为何会选在今年才开第一间旗舰店呢?

    古:得奖后我一直都把自己定位在设计师,因为我本身擅长的就是设计。以前主要都是跟欧美买手店以买断方式合作,今年刚好很幸运遇到代理商赏识,愿意投资我的品牌旗舰店,这样刚好能让我继续专心发挥设计所长,把销售行销交给专业的来,我想是个不错的尝试。(推荐阅读:为什幺马来西亚有 Jimmy Choo, 台湾却没有叫得出名字的鞋子设计师)

    2.What's your plan for your different brands?

    Ku: After attending the show in US, I found out the importance of brand separation. 01 is positioned as American business women with useful & wearable pieces. Gold label is more about my ultimate crazy ideas. So I can pour all my creativity and handcraft on gold label without worrying if it sells. I think it's hard to make a brand super creative but also best-selling and that's why I did it. 

    2.请问您接下来的品牌规划?

    古:自从去美国参展后,我认真发现品牌区隔的重要性。01是针对上班族女性实穿系列,而 Gold Label 则是我发挥极致创意的地方。看看雪芙身上这件我手工缝製的立体洋装,我能耗费大量时间在这些衣服,而不用去担心他的销售与否。其实你看很多品牌要面对销售跟创意都是两难,想要同时大卖又创意十足真的难,所以能这样清楚分开品牌定位,虽然工作量增加很累,但对我来说反而是开心的,能够尽情做想做的事情。

    3. What's your inspiration from?

    Ku: Mainly from Movies, maybe not the recent ones but they are the ones which inspired me the most. Sometimes it was the movie I watched long time ago, but without the technics and resource to make it at that time. When later I have more skills and time, I will make it happen. All designers must have a lot of ideas they wanna conduct but with the obstacles from reality. They are always on our minds and one day we may have chance to realize them!

    3.请问你的灵感来源

    古:我很爱看电影,通常都是以电影为灵感来源。可能很久以前看过某个电影像个种子放在心中,等时机成熟技术也充足时,就有机会把它创造出来,设计师一直都会有很想做的点子但可能被一些现实条件所阻挠,等哪天资源好了就可以好好发挥创造出来。

    4.What do yo think about your famous knitwear?

    Ku: Well, I think it's a good idea but also a bad idea. People may always consider me as a knitwear player. However, I am still a professional designer so I can definitely do a lot of ideas besides knitwear. Like my patterns and cutting, they are all the things I am good at and want to present to you. This year I used a lot of exclusive pattern, with extracting parts from different fabric and combing them together. 

    4.大家常常对你的刻板印象是针织,你有什幺话想说?

    古:哈,我常说这是幸也是不幸,常有人都以为我只会针织其他就没了,但其实我本来是专业设计师出道,各式各样的方法当然都会尝试。这两年我用了很多特殊印花,从原本的白布印上我们独家设计的花样,另外也会从许多不同布料抽取出纱线拼接剪裁,这些都是我想呈现给大家的。针织还是会有, 但不是必然,多方尝试更能证明我的设计实力。

    另外台湾人大多对针织还是会有刻板印象,觉得只有冬天毛衣的性质然后会咬肌肤,但像我们学布料的就知道有很多可以玩,像聂永真穿的那件是纯蚕丝,是非常透气凉爽,在夏天穿起来完全不会有毛衣的闷热感,这就是需要跟消费者沟通的地方。另外要感谢代理商开了实体店面,让消费者能实际来店面触摸产品,了解布料的多元性。

    (我採访的时候他整个很可爱的解释,希望能破除大家对他的刻板印象,除了针织古又文其他的表现也十分杰出,立体花朵剪裁实体看真的美的冒泡啊)

    5. What's your methods for creating these two labels?

    Ku: Gold label is creativity first, and practicability comes second. However, 01 is the opposite with practicability first and creativity second. I will put my idea to ultimate for my gold label, and then adjust it to more market-oriented for my buyers. 01 is setting those wearable pieces and market position first, after that, I will use my creativity to make it fun and interesting.

    5.请问你对这两个品牌的设计方式是如何?

    古:Gold Label 我会把创意摆第一,先把所有灵感推到极致,然后再去简化成比较贴近消费者的单品,毕竟我还是有买家需要负责;01刚好相反,先定好市场定位,接着添加创意灵感元素成为实穿又创意好看的衣服。

    我很感激这两个清楚品牌定位,毕竟商业仍是品牌茁壮的基础。没有商业稳定就会一直为了生存而没力气发挥创意,会为了迎合市场设计一大堆可怕的衣服。没有衣食温饱很难发挥设计师的想法。(你会喜欢:哥德美学的淋漓尽致!时尚界鬼才:亚历山大・麦昆)

    6. Please give us the suggestion for maintaing knitwear items?

    Ku: Well you need to know these knitwear is from nature. It is not the polyester or those artificial fabric. It will change the color and the shape after you wear it. It won't last forever the same, so please enjoy the change of your pieces and take it as your own special collection.

    6.最后可以请您给我们一些针织保养的小技巧?

    古:其实你第一个必须得了解你买的如果是真的针织毛衣,亲爱的那并不是化学人工的聚酯纤维,它是天然的毛料当然会随着时间变化跟你的穿戴而改变。它可能会变形变色,但请别担心,放轻鬆把它当成是你穿过的独特印记,任谁也带不走,成为你专属的衣物。

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

     We were taking photos in front of his award-winning pieces

    我们拍照后面的这两件就是他的得奖作品,实际看很震撼,饶富生命力的针织单品

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    花朵盛放的迷情花园!直击古又文 Johan Ku 的全球首间

    btw i accidentally met my former ELLE co workers!

    小花絮,当天竟然遇到以前 ELLE 的编辑同事!世界真小

    I was really having fun while interviewing Johan himself. He is interesting and also sweet to everyone. Love him so much and wish him all the best!

    这次的专访真的好开心,就像跟好朋友聊天一样轻鬆有趣,能看到自己的时尚梦想好幸运,希望我也能有一天勇闯时尚界,发光发热,古又文你也要继续加油因为你很棒!